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We all know that the Japanese have a very extravagant and intriguing taste in fashion. Brands like Superdry and BAPE are an example of the Japanese fashion scene. Today we will be taking a look at some of the labels that are considered high fashion.
JUNYA WATANABE
One of the world’s most respected contemporary menswear designers, Japanese or otherwise, Junya Watanabe worked under Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons before launching his own label within the CdG family in the early ’90s. Much like the output of COMME des GARÇONS itself, arguably the originator of Japanese avant-garde, Watanabe plays heavily with cuts, textiles and form to create bold reconfigurations of classic menswear designs.
In recent years the Japanese brand is perhaps best known for its use of multiple fabrics in patchwork designs, such as in its ongoing collaborations with Levis, but at the heart of Watanabe’s work is a fascination with different styles of clothing and how the wearer uses them.
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As a result, workwear designs are reimagined with modern cuts and futuristic touches, elaborately-decorated jackets are designed to be just as easily worn inside-out, and classic pieces like suits and overcoats are disrupted with unexpected touches and textures.
If Kawakubo’s avant-garde is a disruption of the visual elements of fashion, then Watanabe’s might be argued to disrupt the functional: it’s a denim jacket like any other, but unlike anything you’ve ever seen before.
WHITE MOUNTAINEERING
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Yosuke Aizawa’s White Mountaineering is one of a number of Japanese clothing brands who transformed the power of functional, utilitarian clothing into stunning fashion design. Aizawa worked under Junya Watanabe before launching his own label in 2006, producing arctic and climbing-inspired clothing with beautiful details such as embroidery, jacquard weaves elaborate patterns and unique fabric blends.Geometric patterns are particularly prominent in Aizawa’s work, spanning knitwear and shirting to the beautiful parquet floor of the brand’s Tokyo flagship store.In recent seasons the brand has branched out to collaborate with a number of major labels, including British outerwear specialist Barbour, Saucony sneakers and adidas Originals — the latter of whom have received widespread acclaim for their elaborate Pitti Uomo presentations.Ironically, Aizawa has admitted in interviews that his designs are probably unsuitable for genuine mountaineering, but his fascination with the aesthetic and visual elements of cold-weather climates has nonetheless created some of the most interesting creations in Japanese fashion in recent years.
EVISU
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Evisu is another label that’s easy to take for granted in the present day, now that their iconic seagull logo is part of the cultural fabric, but the story of its origin is actually one of the most fascinating out there. Started in 1991 by Hidehiko Yamane, initial production could only support up to 14 pairs of jeans being made, producing raw selvedge denim jeans of an exceptionally high quality.There are several stories about the origins of the brand’s name, a popular one being that Evisu was a deliberate misnomer of Levis — even more convincing when you consider the brand’s origins in Osaka, the knock-off capital of Japan, and the similarities between Levi’s and Evisu’s rear pocket “seagull” designs. In fact, Evisu is a reference to Ebisu, a Japanese god of money, something Yamane was keen to make when he founded the brand.During World War II, however, rationing and conservation meant Levis was not allowed to stitch the pattern into the back of their jeans, much like their hollowed-out “donut” buttons that saved metal during the war effort. As a result, the brand had to paint their branding on instead, something that Evisu references in their own painted logo.
Japan is an enormous country, meaning that it can provide us with a variety of choice. There is something for everyone there, a place in where even the most extravagant taste can be satisfied.